LAURA DAVIES heads east to sample the delights of a wintry Hungarian capital.

SCAMPERING between outdoor pools in sub-zero temperatures wearing nothing more than a bikini may not sound like much fun.

And as the biting Budapest air immediately hit me as I ventured outside its famous Szechynyi Baths, I began to question the logic of wearing so little in the winter, and even worse, without a tan.

With slight trepidation, I immersed myself into the 38 degree pool and slowly relaxed as snowflakes fell on the wonderful architecture surrounding me and steam rose into the crisp sunset sky.

After managing to convince myself that re-emerging into the freezing air would be invigorating rather than unpleasant I went for a massage — one of many in the complex.

With a clear head and an ache-free back I headed out onto Budapest's streets.

It is packed with architecture, which converted me into an enthusiast almost overnight.

There's also plenty of evidence of the country's communist past to be found in the city's enormous, red-bricked Soviet statues that dominate the quiet squares.

Icons of giant, thick-necked, ruddy men stand tall with outstretched fingers, pointing east, clutching their work tools.

And the scars of World War II are still visible on the city's older buildings.

My visit was perfectly timed for the Christmas Fair in the city's Vorosmarty Square, and there is nothing better for really getting into the festive spirit than the scent of pine, mulled wine and sweet pastries lingering over a labyrinth of arts and crafts stalls.

The Hungarians are very proud of their strudels, and this was evident from the start of my trip after myself and a fellow Brit journalist were immediately escorted to a famous strudel restaurant, Reteshaz, as soon as we landed in Budapest.

We were shown how the famous pastry was delicately made, and sampled the delicious delicacy — although after my four-day stay I was slightly fed up of it,

We were staying at the Budapest Hotel Radissonblu; smack bang in the heart of the city.

There is only one way to appreciate Budapest, and that is by exploring it by foot and the old-fashioned but cheap metro system.

Part of the fun is getting lost and finding hidden gems off the beaten track, only to discover you have gone around in a circle — something which my fellow Brit and I did on many occasions while snow fell onto our map.

One tip if visiting in December is to take lots of layers of clothing, as when we visited it reached below minus 10.

And don't miss out on a boat trip along the Danube, which will give you a great perspective of the two sides, Buda and Pest.

Buda — quieter with more historic buildings than Pest — well worth exploring.

Check out the Royal Palace and Fishermen's Bastion, with its views across the Danube to the lovely Parliament building.

I would recommend the River Ride — where you get a detailed sightseeing tour on land as well as an opportunity to discover the size of the city before being plunged into the water to get a better look at the beautiful architecture and the banks of the Danube.

For those interested in the arts Budapest has plenty to offer, from classical music, folk music to the theatre and fine arts.

We visited the Museum of Fine Arts where we saw the Botticelli to Titian, two centuries of Italian Masterpieces exhibition, which runs until February 14.

It also boasts a rich variety of works from Egypt to modern times.

The Palace of Arts, which offers an exceptional panorama of Budapest, the Danube Bridges and hills surrounding the city, was opened in 2005, and is the home of music from jazz to world music, opera, dance and contemporary art and painting.

More up my street was Budapest's shopping scene, where there are thousands of temptations, from designer brands to High Street and quaint boutiques off Vaci Street.

I stopped off at the city's most distinguished confectionery and cafe, Gerbeaud, in Vorosmarty Square, for a hot chocolate, which set me back a hefty £5,before strolling off to Vaci Utca to browse at some of the city's finest boutiques and brand-name clothes shops.

And if you are after a Hungarian souvenir to take home, the ever-buzzing Central Market Hall has it all, from apricot and plum brandies, goose liver, and wines from famous Hungarian wine resorts to Hungarian lace, dolls and jewellery.

Whatever your taste and interests Budapest is guaranteed to have it all.

You will leave impressed!