Unique style of a hidden gem

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Thursday, February 25, 2010
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This is SouthWales

PERCHED above a rugby club is not the most likely place to find a quirky but top-notch curry house. So Emma Jones was pleasantly surprised when she stopped off at Barbucci in Bynea, near Llanelli.

Where?

I'M not sure how an igloo-like ceiling ties in with Indian and Bangladeshi cuisine. Perhaps it is intended to mentally take the edge off a particularly spicy vindaloo? Or maybe its Angel Delight-like peaks are supposed to tempt you into ordering a dessert? Whatever the logic is behind it, it certainly provides a talking point, much like the rest of the decor at Barbucci.

But a colleague had raved about the restaurant's extensive menu and unique interior, so I felt obliged to give it a go. I must admit however, as we pulled up in the large but litter-strewn car park of Bynea RFC, there followed a debate over whether a takeaway pizza might be a better option.

Nonetheless, we ambled upstairs to the restaurant, where we found an impressive display containing a range of spices in glass jars and shimmering lengths of voile.

Atmosphere?

As we stepped into the restaurant, we realised it was a place unlike any other. The ceiling looked like it had been carved out of snow and the restaurant itself was divided into cosy little booths with partitions I could just about see over.

We were greeted by a waiter who showed us to one of the booths opposite a large group of high-spirited teenage girls.

The tables were dressed in brown shiny voile and there was a little porthole on one side of the booth opposite a mosaic-encrusted mirror on the other side. It all made for a rather novel, psychedelic effect.

What did we have?

My colleague was right about the menu — it offered a vast array of curries, sensibly divided into mild, medium and hot.

Appetisers include the mandatory onion bhaji (£2.20) and samosa (£3) as well as sheek and shami kebabs (£3), janter manter (mushrooms with spicy lamb coated with breadcrumbs and fried, £3) and tandoori jingra (king prawn in tandoori marinade, chargrilled £4.50).

Mild dishes ranged from kurma to luk nowi (which features the natural sweetness of lychees), modhu (a mild sauce made luxurious by whisking pure honey and spices) and jannaki (aromatic spices gently cooked in a butter and cream sauce garnished with a specially-prepared egg). Medium choices ranged from bhoona and dupiaza to mumbai and saag. The hot menu included dishes made with a generous helping of ground chillies and fiery hot herbs. To make life easier, all the curries cost the same, depending on which main component you choose, from the ever-popular chicken (£6) to lamb (£6), prawns (£6), fish tikka (£9.50), vegetable (£5.50), keema (£6), kufta (£6) and aloo (£5.50).

Determined to try something other than chicken tikka massala, I ordered a chicken passanda with chips, onion bhaji and mint sauce, while my partner went for the chicken tikka lavassa (£7) with sheezan rice (spicy minted chicken fried with basmati rice, £2.60).

We skipped starters but were brought two papadoms with a fresh chutney tray to munch on while we waited for our mains, taking in the aromas emerging from the kitchen.

My curry was rich and creamy, with plenty of sauce with which to smother my chips and bhajis and a generous portion of chicken. My partner suddenly went quiet as soon as his food arrived, which is always a good sign. He said it was lovely.

The bill:

Our waiter was friendly and attentive, especially given the layout of the restaurant. The bill came to £29.30 for two curries, a keema naan, a portion of chips, a portion of rice, mint sauce, a large soft drink and a bottle of cider.

The verdict:

It's probably not the best place to take young children, but it is worth seeking out and an excellent choice for a romantic meal at a restaurant which offers something a bit different.

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