IT'S gone through a number of incarnations during its life, from the once-popular Eaglesbush pub to an Indian restaurant — but now it offers diners a little taste of Italy. JASON EVANS samples the food and the vibe at the Taverna Paradiso.

WHERE

Taverna Paradiso, Briton Ferry Road, Melincryddan

ATMOSPHERE

The place immediately feels friendly and relaxed — and as you walk through the door you get a big welcome from genial host, Giuseppe.

The layout belies its pub origins, and the decor is simple — smart, comfortable brown furniture, and white walls with blackboards listing the specials and seasonal dishes. When you sit down you get a little bowl of good-quality olives and some bruschetta. Add a selection of cheesy Euro soft rock tunes and you've get a nice spot to chill-out.

CROWD

I was there on a quiet week night — there were just a couple of 20 and 30-something couples eating.

But it does get busy at the weekends, with plenty of repeat customers.

MENU

At last — a restaurant that doesn't try to do scores of dishes in an attempt to please everyone.

There is a simple choice of about half-a-dozen dishes each from starters, pasta, fish, meat and puddings, with a couple of specials and more some unusual dishes such as penne with salmon, cream, dill and vodka sauce.

WHAT DID I HAVE?

My starter was a nice combination of alternate layers of tomato and mozzarella, topped with a duck's egg — a nice idea and it would have been even better with those proper Italian tomatoes: the tomatoes you get over there just taste so much more tomatoey than anything you get here. My main was a tasty and piping hot black truffle lasagne with Italian sausage, while for dessert I had a rich but light tiramisu.

A glass of house red wine washed it all down.

DISABILITY ACCESS

Apart from two slightly raised eating areas the rest of the restaurant — including the toilets — is fine.

THE VERDICT

A relaxed environment from people who clearly know what they are doing.

THE BILL

Starter £7; lasagne £9.95; tiramisu £5; small glass of house red £2.95. Total £24.90.

LAST WORD

Over my tiramisu I got chatting to Giuseppe, who hails from the Puglia region down in south of Italy where his family own a vineyard. He has a simple philosophy — "I want the place to feel like you've gone around to your friend's house for dinner." Bon apetito!