I DON'T think I've ever been somewhere that has changed my preconceptions quite so much.

In fact my visit to Serbia has left me feeling slightly guilty at judging a place so unfairly before I'd even been there.

My image of this Balkan state had been formed of television images of war in the former Yugoslavia in the mid 1990s and the Kosovan conflict in 1999. I left Belgrade after four nights in Serbia with a strong desire to return — before I've even decided what kind of holiday I want to have there. There seem to be so many options — active cycling or walking; sightseeing trips to the capital; family holidays along the famous Danube river; lively nightclub hopping in Belgrade.

It seems Serbia is a country keen to welcome more people.

Our visit began with a night in the Hotel Crystal in central Belgrade — a modern hotel within easy reach of bars and restaurants in the city. My room had a view of the Cathedral of Saint Sava — one of the largest Orthodox cathedrals in the world. The room was spacious and clean, and staff were, (with hindsight, unsurprisingly) very friendly.

A pleasant evening meal at the Kalamegdan Terrace, a restaurant within the grounds of the Belgrade Fortress, was followed by a visit to a couple of modern bars which sit on the banks of the Danube. It was a week night, but you can imagine these bars to be very popular at the weekend.

Quite surprisingly more than a decade after the war, there is still evidence of the 1999 Nato bombing campaign against Milosevic's Serbia. A number of buildings still lie in ruins, seemingly untouched since the airstrikes. It seems strange to see an otherwise modern city, full of people keen to move on from the past , with visible scars of the bombing still so clearly on display.

The Serbian tourist board is keen to highlight the rural areas of the country as potential tourist destinations. Following the Danube into the east of the country it is easy to see the appeal. The view along the river at the Iron Gates National Park is spectacular. A riverboat trip is highly recommended, as is a drive along the road that follows the river through the "irongates". The road frequently rises up high up the river, with a number of spots to get out and take in the view.

The Irongates Gorge begins at the site of the Golubac Fortress. Although now in ruins, the fortress is still an imposing site and well worth a stop-off. However, the impression that Serbia is still developing as a tourist destination is one that lingers from this visit as there is no access to the site.

The Hotel Aquastar, in Kladovo, offers a good base to explore the Irongates as well as some sites further inland from the famous river.

The Vratna Nature Reserve is one such site. As well as the pretty Monastery Vratna, there is the natural beauty of the canyon of the Vratna river, which is known for the three highest natural stone bridges in Europe, formed when the roof of the cave collapsed.

While there is much to see in Serbia if you're looking for a family, sightseeing holiday, our last night in the country — a Saturday night — gave us a glimpse of Belgrade as a party town.

Serbia offers many different holidays — a city break in Belgrade, a party destination, a family holiday or a more energetic walking or cycling trip. The overriding impression I am left with, though, is whatever type of holiday you choose, you will be greeted with a smile in Serbia.