My wine adventures have taken me to Portugal this weekend — in spirit, if not in body.

I have just cracked open a bottle of Quinta de San Joanne Branco 2008 (£7.99, Les Caves de Pyrene) and was straightaway transported to northern Portugal — not bad considering I am actually sitting in my house in Neath.

Vinho Verde may not enjoy the best of reputations but wines of this quality could soon change that.

Made from a blend of local Avesso and Loureira grapes, this wine is as shiny as a referee's new whistle — fresh and citrussy and with a delicate richness to the apple and lemon palate. A serious wine, and a great match with seafood dishes especially shellfish and oily fish like mackerel.

The San Joanne is a perfect example of what makes the world of wine endlessly fascinating and exciting — there is so much variety out there, and you can learn something new every time you pop a cork or twist a screwcap.