A RINGING endorsement from a friend of mine finds me at the door of Rasoi's Indian Kitchen.

The last time I was here — at least 20 years ago — it was the old Glamorgan Arms and Mrs S and I had come out for a Sunday afternoon trip with the kids. They were happy as Larry using the gondolier swings in its gardens while we had a bite to eat. Remember its play area? My, what a difference two decades makes.

Newly opened — late because of some initial teething troubles — people's reactions to its transformation into something very, very different, have so far been positive.

A long, long way from the foodie distractions of Swansea's curry heartland in St Helen's Road, this curry-house looks an altogether different proposition from many of its rivals.

The menu is littered with impressive, high-end ingredients wrought into what look like clever and ambitious dishes on paper. Add plenty of exotic Indian lustre to the huge dining room itself, and you have what I reckon is a bit of a winning combo!

Our early-evening visit saw us walk into a not-too-busy place with plenty of seats to spare. Classy but low on pomp is probably the best description.

The interior is both smart and tasteful: comfortable seating and with a waiting area for busy nights. Lighting is low where it needs to be with candles in sconces littering the walls to add atmosphere, which it needs because of the vast space that is this restaurant.

Its kitchen focuses on what I think are mainly northern Indian dishes. And it has got a lot going for it: great meat dishes and splendid vegetarian specialities. Start with a few pieces from the appetiser list: chicken pakora (chicken coated with lentil batter), £4.50, for me, Galuti kebab (lamb cakes with a mint yoghurt) for Mrs S. Both good, though hers was probably one of the best starters I have ever tried in an Indian eaterie.

Then, turn your attention to the main dishes. If you don't fancy anything too blisteringly hot, the chicken balti cooked with coriander (£8) is a good bet. Rich, strongly flavoured and lit up by good spices. So too the Machi Chatpati, pan fried sea bass with curried pistachio sauce. A garlic naan at £2.50 was another good buy and again, one of the best examples of its kind I have tried for a long time.

The portions are not gigantic and the prices may be just a tiny notch above some curry houses, but this is a real restaurant and one that has had the courage to serve something different.

The service is solicitous, and you can ask staff for advice with confidence. So five stars from me, both for food and, importantly, service too. You will have no trouble distinguishing it from the run of the mill.

New stars have a habit of fading fast. Not this one I would wager!

Peter Slee