MEXICAN restaurants may not force the pace among foreign food styles in Swansea, but Chris Peregrine visits one committed to the cause.

Where?

Chiquito, Salubrious Place, Swansea, SA1 1EE. 01792 643 488.

Atmosphere?

It is a happy place, with a nice mix of background music and subdued lighting, both in keeping with the perceived image of a Mexican restaurant. The layout is of the scattered variety, tables here and there to give a distinctive feel.

Crowd?

Friday night and it was doing well. The weekend had begun and there was a feel-good factor in the air.

Menu?

It is a well-established national chain, which may give you a sightly different take than individual restaurants. But to be fair, the Chiquito menu is pretty comprehensive. The range includes sizzling fajitas, served with flour tortillas and salsa, guacamole and sour cream. Steak and burgers can be found, while a rack of ribs and spicy chilli are other headline acts. If you are up for cocktails or dessert, you will also be well catered for.

What did we have?

Garlic flatbread beef chilli as a shared starter. My wife had a Texan melt chicken and chips with salad and coleslaw, while I had a Southern Soul chicken with mash and a mildly spicy gravy. Corn on the cob was a given accompaniment for both dishes.

Disability access?

Yes, straight in.

The verdict:

Chain restaurants abound around Wind Street and never assume that they are a cheap option, normally made less so by pricey wines. There can be the annoying habit in some of being greeted, and continually being referred to as, guys. The word guys does float around Chiquito, it has to be said, and something else which did on my visit was much of the contents of the vinegar bottle on our table. A faulty top transformed my meal into a liquid one, but the response of the waiter was prompt and everything it should have been. The incident, handled well, was immediately put in the "one of those things/it can't be helped" categories.

It didn't spoil the evening, although there was obviously a far from ideal delay with the other meal on the table. That was reheated and second time around both were as tasty as we had hoped.

The bill:

One of us had tap water at no charge and the other a pint of Stella Artois, which took the bill to £31.35 for a shared starter, two mains and drinks.

Last word?

In the chain restaurant war Chiquito more than holds its own. But the Mexican slant on cuisine — a style not exactly bursting with local choice — is always a welcome one for this diner.