Where?

Britannia Inn, Llanmadoc, Gower. Tel: 01792 386624

Atmosphere?

A place of two halves. A thriving local boozer when you walk in through the main door, packed with locals who know what they like. An assortment of old tables and chairs graces the place. They look as though they have been in situ for years which is, I suspect, exactly what its loyal regulars want. Walk up a few steps once inside, however, and you are in a different world. Think clean lines and welcoming decor. Its restaurant area has been sympathetically refurbished recently and looks all the better for it. It is smart, yet homely and welcoming, as are the staff. There is attention to detail which is good. All that was missing on our visit was a few dripping candles on the tables.

Crowd?

The Britannia's pub area is very much a place for locals and it is the first impression you get when you walk in. There are plenty of drinkers nursing their pints. But given the food on offer in the restaurant, I suspect they are also fast joining those from further afield travelling into north Gower in search of good food, and moving over into the restaurant too. On the Sunday lunchtime we visited, it was full to bursting with couples, families and friends occupying tables in roughly equal proportions.

Menu?

Owners Lindsey, front of house, and Martin, who cooks, have done themselves proud. They don't muck about with the ingredients too much, which I like. The food is British with a few splashes of colour and packed with flavours that have been well considered — an interesting combination of old favourites and innovative new dishes. Portions are generous too, as I discovered with my main. Even the good, fresh, crusty bread comes in giant sliced slabs rather than the apologies you sometimes get served in some local restaurants I could name. This is a good gesture. It probably doesn't cost that much to do but, I am convinced, goes down well with punters.

What did we have?

My starter of warm goat's cheese salad with a gremolata dressing and roast peppers was a good mix of both taste and texture. My partner's cauliflower soup had an intense flavour, which also exactly hit the spot. For mains, my generous portion of creamy risotto flavoured with fresh herbs and wild mushrooms was solid and homely but delivered with a good degree of polish, as was my partner's Welsh Black beef, served medium rare. It came with a pile of perfectly cooked vegetables and both roast and new potatoes. A huge brownie wedge finished the meal off. Again, it was packed with everything you want in a dessert such as this and I reckon it's a must if you visit.

Disability access?

The Brit's car park is on a bit of a slope and might cause some problems for a few. But pull up immediately outside and there should be no trouble in accessing the place.

The verdict:

Once upon a time, decent food was a bit hard to find in Gower. Now there is a growing handful of places offering good, contemporary food in style. This is one of them. Competition is healthy for the businesses involved, but even better for diners.

Last word?

Give me good food and drink served up by smiling faces and I am a happy man. This is what you get here at a shade under £15 for a three-course Sunday lunch. It may be a little off the beaten track, but this place is absolutely worth seeking out.