AS the Scarlets head for their Heineken Cup match against Club Athlétique Brive next week, supporters had better have empty stomachs and plenty of change in their pockets before visiting this French town.

Brive-la-Gaillarde, to give it its full name, sits like a contented farmer overlooking its rich fertile lands. Situated north of the Dordogne Valley, in the Corrèze département, the town is known as the gateway to the South of France, and where life and the people, like its cuisine, are hearty, refined and proud.

Fortunately your Christmas detox should be over and you can supplement all those lost calories by feasting on local produce including limousine beef, succulent duck and rich foie gras, and walnut liqueur. Not to miss is the renowned market held three times a week in the Halle Georges Bessons in place de 14 Juillet. Celebrated for the quality and variety of the produce, be sure to visit this market on Saturday morning when stalls are brimming with meat, cheese, bread fruit and vegetables.

Unfortunately, you will be missing one of the famous Marches de Grasses — the foie-gras and truffle markets — however you may still be able to take a glimpse at black diamond (truffles) trading. Beware though, with the going price between 20 and 60 euros a kilogram, I advise buying the chocolate kind instead.

Conveniently, there are numerous chocolate shops dotted around the town — a more economical and less pungent gift.

The town is said to have earned the name la Gaillarde (meaning the strong or sprightly) during the Hundred Years War when the town successfully repelled the English forces.

In 1944 the town once again lived up to its name when it became the first French town to liberate itself from the Germans.

These days the Brivistes retain their fighting spirit only in their support of their team les Noirs et Blanches, while they enjoy a relatively tranquil lifestyle.

Roughly two and a half hours from both Toulouse and Bordeaux, Brive-la-Gaillarde, is easily accessible by train or by road.

Assuming you come by train, all roads from the gare SNCF lead down to the centre of the old town, to Place du Général-de-Gaulle, where the restored church of St-Martin stands tall.

Brive may not be as rustically pretty as its neighbours, but it has a robust charm and a compact centre with narrow winding old streets. Here you will find a range of chic boutiques, catering equally for men, women and the home.

The rugby supporter will be spoilt for choice with Eden Park, Serge Blanco, and if you fancy a souvenir, the CA Brive shop, touting their wares.

And with the sales lasting until the beginning of February you'll be able to pick up some Gallic style for a reasonable price.

FACTFILE

Where to eat

Le Sweet. This small, busy bar on Avenue de Paris is a side step from the market and serves up the best value three courses for 15 euros.

Le 4. Tucked away on Rue Majour, this restaurant is a bit more pricey but well worth the extra euros. The sophisticated cuisine is complemented by a stylish but cosy décor and so keen is Pascal the chef, to please your palate he'll serve you himself.

Crêperie L'Hermine. Head to this crêperie on Rue de Paris for a range of savoury and sweet crêpes.

Where to drink

Le Toulzac. Stop for un grand café or un demi bière.

La distillerie Denoix. Fortunately for a family named Denoix (of nuts) their distillery, on boulevard Marechal-Lyautey, specialises in liquers made from walnuts. Take a look round the distillery and enjoy the tasting session of traditional and innovative blends.

Places to visit:

First stop should be the tourist office. Situated in an old pumping station and water tower built in the form of a lighthouse, the staff are extremely helpful. Remember to pick up a map. Tel:+33 (0)5 55 24 08 80

Musée Labenche. This museum contains a diverse collection of artefacts showing the history of the area from prehistoric times to modern day. A highlight is a collection of Mortlake tapestries from the 17th Century bought from a local chateau.

Musée Edmond Michelet. This museum demonstrates Brive's more recent history during WWII.

Stade Amédée-Domenech. Home to CA Brive, this stadium is named after a Brive local legend. It is open for guided tours.