As romance goes, the name Gimblett Gravels may lack a little amor, but it is certainly a cracking place to make quality wines.

This spot south of Gisborne on the North Island of New Zealand is developing a name for itself as an area producing elegant wines, especially reds.

It is an area of some 800 hectares of gravely soils laid down by the old Ngaruroro River, which were exposed after a huge flood in the 1860's.

However it wasn't until the 1980's that the potential of the land was realised — for decades it had been almost worthless land, thought too poor even to raise sheep let alone grow crops. Instead they built warehouses on it and allowed a mining company to dig up the gravel.

Then a few vinous pioneers showed the potential of the area — and sparked a revolution.

To sample the fruits of this revolutionary movement direct your wine glass towards the Babich Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2006 (£8.26, Tesco)

The quality comes shining out in spicy, elegant, perfumed Gimblett glory — a very classy Kiwi indeed.

Viva la revolution.