SOMETHING incredible happened the other day, and it left me awestruck.

Something so rare, and so spectacular, it ranks alongside Halley's Comet, a solar eclipse, or a blue moon.

I saw an Indian driver use his indicator. Wait, there's more: I saw an Indian driver use his indicator and then turn in the corresponding direction.

Now, I know what you're thinking: "Pull the other one, I wasn't born in to the world five minutes ago." But no, I swear on my naan bread, it's true.

That astonishing occurrence aside, it's the enormous fort (Mehrangarh Fort, AD1459) that dominates my memory of Jodhpur, which is quite a nice little city.

Tragically, I didn't see anyone wearing jodhpurs. Why? Doesn't everyone in Hawaii wear offensive shirts? The traffic is typically chaotic but the pace is slightly slower than Jaipur and the pollution, less pervasive. The fort sits on its perch like a man-made Ayers Rock, and offers great views of the 'Blue City' below it. (Many houses were painted blue as the chemical element in the wash - copper sulphate, I think - deters termites.) There is still the characteristic haze over the city though, a combination of the heat, pollution, and dust.

I lazily took a rickshaw up to the fort, but in my defence I had a heavy cold and didn't fancy a 4km walk uphill with the mid-day sun beating down on my head. I think it was the correct decision because even with my almost-door-to-door service I collapsed in an exhausted heap back at the hotel that afternoon, and slept off the cold for a few hours. I woke to find I'd been ravaged by mosquitos - so much for the repellent. Oh, here's a helpful tip, for which you can thank me later: Don't buy aerosol repellents, get the kind with a pump type nozzle instead. It's impossible to use the aerosol ones without suffocating yourself and repelling everything and everyone within ten metres, let alone the mosquitos - who seemed undeterred on this occasion.

I've moved on to Delhi and as yet, have - more by luck than judgement - avoided any nasty repercussions of eating the spiciest food I can lay my greedy hands on. I'm starting to get city-fatigue though, and am wistfully looking forward to arriving in Pokhara in a few days time. That is, once I've sorted out the bus ticket.

I knew there was something I was supposed to be doing this afternoon…